Tsechu festivals: Bhutan's masked dances

A tsechu is a religious festival held in a dzong or temple courtyard, usually over three to five days. The name means "tenth day": most are timed to the tenth day of a month in the Bhutanese lunar calendar, a day associated with Guru Rinpoche, who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century.

The cham dances

At the heart of every tsechu are the cham, sacred dances performed by monks and laymen in elaborate brocade costumes and carved masks. Each dance tells a story or carries a teaching: the defeat of evil spirits, the journey of the soul after death, or episodes from Guru Rinpoche's life. Watching a cham is believed to bring blessings, so families come from across the valley to see them.

Between the dances, atsaras (masked jesters) wander through the crowd, teasing onlookers and keeping the mood light. Do not be surprised if one picks you out.

The thongdrel

At some festivals, most famously Paro Tsechu, a giant thangka called a thongdrel is unrolled across the dzong wall before sunrise on the final day. Seeing it is said to free the viewer from sin, and it is rolled away again before the sun touches it.

When they happen

Because the dates follow the lunar calendar, they move a little each year. Paro Tsechu usually falls in spring (around March or April) and Thimphu Tsechu in autumn (around September or October), with many smaller festivals in between. We check the official dates when planning your trip.

How to be a good guest

• Dress modestly: long sleeves and long trousers or a long skirt.
• Do not walk across the dance area, and keep to the edges of the courtyard.
• Photography is usually allowed, but never use a flash and do not block the view of local families.
• Arrive early on the main days: the best spots fill quickly.